But all that aside, heres what we have been up to.
Germany
Although we spent the least amount of time there, Germany has been a great place to visit. We were staying in the Saarland (Western part of Germany; close the border of France) and if you didn't know any better you might think that you had stepped into the Texas Hill Country (minus the fact that its been raining almost everyday and the temperature on average 50's-60's, high 70's). Otzenhausen, the town in which were staying, is incredibly small and is surrounded by these green hills and, judging from some of the locals, makes an ideal place for old people to retire to.
The close proximity to France here gives the academy there a unique purpose. After WWII, the mutual hatred between the French and Germans hindered relations between the two countries. The new generation of French and German students after the war didn't understand the continual bitterness and therefore tried to find ways of interacting with one another across borders. Thus the academy was created for Germans and French alike to come together at the table and interact with one another. Institutions such as this have no doubt been a had huge significance in easing Post-War hatred felt by each country.
Belgium: Bastogne and the Ardennes
Our first field trip from Germany was to Belgium and the city of Bastogne.
The Ardennes Offensive was Hitler's last gamble against the Western Allies. Under complete secrecy Hitler committed his last reserves to driving the Allies back and capturing the port of Antwerp. The Germans caught the Allies completely by surprise, sending them back into France from the German border. The timing of the offensive was right upon the onset of winter, when the weather grounded the Allied Air Forces.
Bastogne was significant in that it was one of the few places that the American forces (most notably the 101st Airborne) were able to hold up a successful defense. Conditions were not favorable for the American defenders. They did not have proper winter gear, had little food and almost ammunition. The German offensive had encircled the city as well, thus preventing any flow of American reinforcements and supplies in and wounded out. Yet in spite of this the Americans dug into the Ardennes. For 40 days, the US lost 500 men a day in holding the city. But even with these casualties the Americans endured, and held off the German from capturing Bastogne.
There are two things that I really enjoyed about this field trip. First, we actually got to see the foxholes that the American defenders (famously Easy Company from Band of Brothers) used. Walking through the Ardennes was like stepping into history almost as unique as Omaha Beach was. It was walking upon the same ground that American soldiers, many the same age as myself, fought and died for liberty almost 70 years ago.
Secondly, our tour guide was a local of Bastogne and was 9 years old during the Battle of the Bulge. He had seen the German occupation in 1940, the Americans liberation in 1944, and now saw what looked like the Germans return. Civilians were no exception to the fighting around Bastogne. While trying to melt snow for water, his father was killed by shrapnel from an exploding artillery shell.
More significant to me is the insight he provided about Belgian views of the Germans. When I asked him what the reaction of the Belgians were once the German offensive reached Bastogne he said it was unanimous disappointment. When I asked him to elaborate he replied with this:
"We HATED the Germans. From childhood we were brought up even in schools to hate the Germans because at the time, they were the occupiers."
I just thought it was a very interesting look at the legacy of the war for some people.
Luxembourg
Our visit to Luxembourg was very similar to Bastogne. The museum there we visited was administered by locals from the area. Our tour guide's parents had both been children during the Nazi occupation which added a lot to the tour. What was really cool was that a lot of the exhibits in the museum were donated by the locals. Anything from helmets to machine guns and mortars were found around the area (and there are still probably more that have not been found yet.) Our tour guide talked about when he was in elementary school he and his friend found these wooden river buoys one day and took them to school to trade with their friends. Come to find out, they were actually river mines. Fortunately the explosives had corroded and fallen out before he found them.
After the museum and spending some time in Luxembourg City, we went to the American cemetery outside of the city. This cemetery is probably most famous for it being the resting place of General Patton.
Ft. Hackenburg and Rhine River Cruise
Our last field trip was the French border to the Maginot Line. Built between the two World Wars, this extensive defense line was built by the French to prevent any attack by the Germans from the East. The Maginot line itself wasn't really designed to win a war, rather just hold off any attack long enough for the French Army to mobilize and get to the border.
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| Loading breech for a cannon inside |
We left Otzenhausen two days later for Frankfurt. Instead of taking a bus the whole way, we took a river boat up the Rhine towards the city. The cruise was really enjoyable. There are plenty of small villages along the river, as well as numerous castles which were really cool to see. Fortunately the weather had cleared up and it was a beautiful day for being on the river.
By the time we got off of the boat we only had an hour bus ride to Frankfurt. I fell asleep on the way in so I missed a lot of the scenery of Frankfurt. But oh well.
Since it was our last night in Europe we all went to eat as a group. After that we all went back the hotel and just kind of did our own thing. I had to catch a shuttle to the airport at 5 so it was a short night for me. And after a very long day of flying, we made it back to the good ol' U.S. of A.
Conclusion
"I have not told half of what I saw” Marco Polo
I feel like I can connect with Marco Polo here in that even with words and pictures, I can never fully describe everything I have seen or experienced on my trip to you.
This trip was an experience of a lifetime. Seeing so many new places and all of the historical sites there have made memories that I know I will not forget. I wish I could adequately describe how memorable this trip has been.
I have walked along the same ramparts as William the Conqueror. I've stood at the beaches, bridges, and cliffs that American, British, and Canadian soldiers stormed the beaches of Normandy, parachuted into darkness over France, and scaled the the cliffs of Point du Hoc. I've sat in the same foxholes as American soldiers fought from in the Ardennes during the Battle of the Bulge. I've even stood at the top of the Eiffel Tower and seen the lights of Paris from 896 feet above the ground.
In all, I feel like my time in Europe opened my eyes to history in a new way. I used to think World War II as being an ocean way, on some distant battlefield. But after seeing the battlefields and even talking with the few people I did that were alive during the war, I have a whole new outlook. For them the war was having your town or village occupied by the Germans, your home destroyed from bombs or artillery, or even a family member killed just because they were caught in the crossfire. The horror of war was not an ocean away, but right outside. It affected everyone, civilians and soldiers alike. Its the legacy of both World Wars that gives war a bitter taste in the mouth of many Europeans (especially the French).
Well, that about sums it all up. Thanks for all of you that have continued to follow along with my trip and for checking up on me while I was away.
-Kyle Machen
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