Four-Day Weekend to Dublin
For our four day weekend a majority of the group decided to go to Dublin, Ireland. Everyone was pretty excited to get out of France and head to an English speaking country.
I wish I could say that our trip to and from Ireland and France was pleasant and relaxing but it was far from it for a number of reasons. First, our 'peaceful and relaxing' train ride to Paris was delayed due to issues on the tracks (a 'landside' of dirt and a few rocks). That set us back an hour and with another hour on the train we made it to Paris with only an hour to get to the airport. We practically sprinted through the Paris subway tunnels and cramped into subway cars packed full of people who hadn't showered in a few years. A wrong train lost us a crucial 15 minutes that caused us to miss our flight. We begged and pleaded with AirFrance to try to get us on or on an earlier flight the next day. Although we couldnt all go as a group, we were able to book flights at different times throughout the day to Dublin. The four of us with later flights in the afternoon found a really nice and fairly cheap hotel on the airport to stay the night while the earlier flight people slept in the airport.
On the trip back, our plane's landing gear was not functioning properly so we had to turn around and go back to Dublin. Not being a huge fan of flying, I of course had nightmares of going down in the English Channel and having to endure some horrific plane crash survival scenario that you see on Discovery Channel. Its ridiculous, but with the luck we had had I was giving it pretty good odds. Our delayed flight meant we missed our earlier train back to Caen from Paris, so we had to buy another ticket and leave later. But we made it!
Dublin was amazing! Despite the infinite number of pubs and the fact that most Irish begin drinking Guinness at 9:30 AM, the Irish were probably the friendliest Europeans we have encountered so far. They would always help with directions or just sit and talk with you at pubs about pretty much whatever (soccer was pretty much the topic). Aside from socializing with the Irish a few of us went and saw the final Harry Potter film (which with some of the Irish providing commentary was hysterical). Believe it or not, my A&M Student ID actually counted for me to get student ticket prices (only 4 Euros). We also checked out the Guinness Storehouse, where they still brew Ireland's signature beer. At the very top of the storehouse (also the largest pint glass in the world - could hold up to 500 million pints) was the Gravity Bar, where you could exchange your ticket stub from the tour for a free freshly poured pint of Guinness. It was probably one of the best beers I have ever had.
Ranger Museum, Saint Marie Eglise, and Polish Cemetery
The next day we took a field-trip to the Ranger Museum near Point du Hoc. Although small, the Ranger Museum is full of information and artifacts about the Rangers on D-Day, including the actual ropes that they used to scale the cliffs. One Ranger in particular received more attention than the others: James Earl Rudder. The museum had a whole wall section dedicated to him. What I found really interesting was a copy of a magazine article in which Earl Rudder and his son Bud were followed by a reporter as the war hero returned with his son to Point du Hoc.
After our short visit was then followed by a trip to the Airborne Museum at Saint Marie Eglise. This was a drop zone targeted for the 82nd Airborne to hit, with St. Marie Eglise being the the main target. The museum in itself was not as interesting as the tribute the local public made.
Above, you see one of two stained glass windows. If you look closely, you will see the unit patches of the 82nd and 101st Airborne as well as other units. In the center, you see an Angel prepared for battle with sword, shield, and armor. A key thing to note here is the Angel's wings - upon completion of airborne school a paratrooper is given a set of jump wings. Although these are not the same style of wings as the Angel has, it is clear that the French civilians of the city viewed the coming of Airborne troops a God sent miracle from above.
Similar to this is a statue found near the Airborne Museum
The lower part is the outline of France. A parachute drops with a torch (liberty) as the hands of the French people break through the darkness of occupation, with chains and all, to grab the light of freedom.
Our last stop was to the Polish cemetery. Although Poland was conquered in 1939 by Germany and Russia, some groups of their soldiers made it out to France and eventually to Britain. There, they formed their own brigades to help fight the Nazis. Their patriotism is admirable. Although their country was occupied and they had no more need to fight, they joined the Allied crusade to defeat the Nazis.
Statue at Polish Cemetery. The warrior, with shield raised as if to take on a giant, still holds a sword and waits to deliver a final blow |
Our next visit was to Bayeux, where the Normandy Campaign Museum and the British Cemetery are located. The museum did not allow photography but I did take a few pictures with my I-phone very discretely (I just couldn't pass them up, don't judge). But it basically summed up all the separate missions and landings during D-Day into one concise museum.
The British cemetery was styled very similar to the Canadian one in that many of the gravestones had personalized messages inscribed at the request of the families. More emotional messages of love and respect; more messages of pride for a son, who was only 19, but did "a man's job. Not only British soldiers were buried here. There were several graves committed to soldiers of the Commonwealth (Australia, Canada, New Zealand, Egypt.) as well as Italians, Czechs, Poles, and even Russians and Germans. On this hallowed ground both enemies and allies alike lay side by side in peace.
Aside from WWII, Bayeux is also the site of the Bayeux tapestry: an 900+ year old, 224 ft. long timeline of William the Conquer's invasion of Britain in 1066. The detail and extent that the weavers went to to record this historical event was mind-blowing. Something this massive, this detailed that had survived so long was incredible to witness. It is not just words on a page in a history book. This is a graphic illustration of what happened. This is history you don't get to learn in a classroom.
I deviate from WWII to talk about this because in a way, the events of 1066 very much influenced the events of 1944. William the Conqueror established the foundation of the British Monarchy and the Britain that we know today. His institutions and his descendants over time would go from control of their small island, to controlling 85% of the globe and the dominant force on the seas. It is all relevant because in 1944, the British helped to liberate the homeland of the king that long ago, conquered theirs. This is reflected in the in an epitaph on the memorial outside the cemetery:
Memorial for the Missing at British Cemetery |
Much like the Bayeux tapestry, the span of history itself is often weaved together in one large diorama.
Two-Day Weekend to London
This trip was very last minute spur of the moment. Originally I had not planned on going anywhere for the two-day and just wanted to stay in Caen to read and relax. But its not everyday that an opportunity to go to London falls in your lap so I joined in with a group of 7 others to go see the UK.
Having little faith in trains or planes, we decided to take the much cheaper route of travel: the ferry. Although our voyage was about 5-6 hours, traveling on a ferry instantly became one of my favorite ways to travel. It was more of a small cruise ship than a ferry!
We arrived in Portsmouth and took a train to London (somewhat hypocritical but English trains are ok. The French trains are the evil ones.) Our hotel was outside of the main London area and Im almost 90% sure that the manager is, or at some point was associated with the Russian Mafia. But it was a bed to sleep in and at that point I was just too tired to care.
They may look goofy, but their weapons are real. If you make it past them you still have the fully decked out SWAT troopers with machine guns and all waiting for you. |
London, so far, has been my favorite place. We only had one full day to see it and the 8 of us made the most of it. We woke up early and hit the subway to downtown London to see all the sights. We saw so many great things but best of all was Queen Elizabeth II in her motorcade leaving Buckingham Palace. I think we may have made eye contact for a split mili-second but it was so cool being that close to a monarch.
The Queen's motorcade. |
Aside from seeing the historical sites of London, we also ventured to Abbey Road and did our best to stage the same picture as the Beatles (except the cars weren't stopping for us so it turned into a game of Frogger). We also caught the matinee showing of 'Phantom of the Opera', which was the idea of the three girls but Im really glad that we complied. It was an amazing show and the cast blew us away with both their acting and their singing.
After a full day we made it back to our hotel, had a few words with our Russian friend, then went to bed. We caught an early train to Portsmouth, where we looked around at the different shops before finally getting on the ferry back to Caen. We had no issues with travel so the trip was much more relaxing.
Departure from Caen
The next day we departed Caen to relocate south along the Coast at St. Malo. On the bus ride there we stopped at another German cemetery, different from the others in that it consisted of vaults and not graves. Like the other German cemeteries, little else is known about the soldiers there aside from their rank and serial number.
Our next stop was at Mont Saint Michel- a massive cathedral/monastery town dedicated to the Arch-angel Michael. Oh ya, its built on an island too!
The whole city seems like something you would see in Lord of the Rings (Minas Tirith for those of you who know the trilogy). A massive city built almost strait out of the rock it rests on and towers above the bay. At the highest point, a gold statue of Michael stands overlooking the bay and countryside for miles.
Its a giant fortress of a church.
Mont Saint Michel |
"The LORD is my rock and my fortress and my deliverer, My God, my rock, in whom I take refuge; My shield and the horn of my salvation, my stronghold" (Psalms 18:2)
The whole time walking around the city, and others like it, I felt like I needed to have a sword and armor while some epic movie soundtrack blares over loudspeakers. Unfortunately they don't offer tours like that over here.
Saint Malo
After leaving Saint Michel we arrived in Saint Malo, our new location until Thursday (tomorrow). By far, the best place in France we have visited. Our hotel is in the historical area of the city that is still surrounded by walls which over look the harbor and make a great place for a walk or in this mornings case, a excellent running track. Of the 18 of us in the group, there is probably 99% consensus that we would have rather stayed in St. Malo and take hour bus rides over staying in Caen.
Walls of Saint Malo |
Visit to Jersey
The day after arriving in St. Malo we took a ferry to Jersey, an island of the coast of France but belongs to the UK. While the Nazis never did invade or occupy Britain, they did occupy Jersey from 1941 till 1945.
Our main visit was to the Jersey War tunnels, which served as the headquarters/hospital area for the Germans. While the weather outside was chilly, the tunnels were buried under 35 feet of rock, making inside a refrigerator. But the exhibits were very well done, and as always it is interesting to see a different side of the war through occupation. One exhibit focused on the topic of collaboration (working with, helping out the Germans). The room had several mannequins in German uniforms with television screens for heads. On the screens, a recorded face of a German soldier would be smiling, attempting to converse or introduce himself. While not the real deal, it does make you think about what you would do in a similar situation.
Although cheesy looking, it does give you a good idea |
Another interesting part of the museum is that upon entry you are handed a card (very similar to Identity Cards issued by the Nazis to occupied citizens) with a name, picture, and basic information about that person. Should you choose to, you can find out more about that person and what they did during the occupation.
My card, Albert Gustave Bedane, was a physiotherapist who was persecuted for hiding an elderly Jewish woman supposed to be shipped to a concentration camp. He also helped a French prisoner of war and several Russian prisoners escape the island. Because food was scarce, he also 'illegally' took farmer's products as payment for his medical services. He was later declared a "Righteous Person" by Israel for his actions in helping Jews, the highest honor paid to those who assisted in saving Jews from the Holocaust. What an honor..
Well, thats it for now! Sorry I have taken so long to touch base. I'll check in with ya'll again once we get to Paris!
Oh yes, one more thing....
America! |